Black hair is a site of cultural expression, political meaning, and ongoing resistance. From West African traditions of elaborate braiding patterns (oral tradition holds that escape-route maps were sometimes braided into hair during slavery), through suppression of natural hair under slavery and Jim Crow, through the political statement of the 1960s–70s Afro, through the natural hair movement of the 2010s–20s, Black hair is loaded with meaning. The National Museum of African American History and Culture’s “Strands of Inspiration” is literacy here.
Forms
Natural hair — worn in its natural texture, not chemically straightened; the contemporary natural hair movement has grown significantly. Locs / dreadlocks — associated with Rastafarian tradition, Afrocentric identity, and increasingly mainstream Black culture. Braids — box braids, cornrows, knotless braids, micros, Senegalese twists, Marley twists — protective and beautiful. Twists — Bantu knots, two-strand twists. Relaxers (perms) — chemical straighteners; widespread historically; declining as natural hair has grown. Weaves and wigs — adding hair extensions; long tradition; legitimate; should not be mocked. Edges — the small hair at the hairline, often laid down with edge control. Wash days — the long process of washing, conditioning, and styling Black natural hair, often weekly or every other week. Hair salons and barbershops are cultural institutions and gathering places.
The CROWN Act — state-level legislation in many states, including Minnesota — protects against hair-based discrimination in employment and schools. Hair is not for touching. Hair is not a professionalism test.
Beauty and colorism
Generations of European beauty ideals have been resisted with movements like Black is Beautiful, Black Girl Magic, the natural hair movement. Colorism within the Black community — historic preference for lighter skin tones; the “paper bag test”; ongoing tension; light-skin versus dark-skin discourse. Body diversity — celebration of Black women’s curves, Black men’s bodies; tensions with Eurocentric thin-ideal pressures.
A lawyer in a loc and a scientist in a lab coat are not opposites. They may be the same person on different Tuesdays.